Epoxy
This is a two-part epoxy. I have found nothing
stronger for assembling miniatures. It is a great gap filler and
can be carved or filed to shape once it has cured. Of course it is messy, and must be used quickly before it is set.
Goop
I used this stuff to glue magnets in place on my mods for X-Wing. It worked well and didn't put me on a timer the same way epoxy would have. It was a gooey mess to use, though (guess the name should have given me a warning). |
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"Green Stuff" Blue/Yellow Epoxy Putty
This is one of the putties that miniature sculptors use.
It can be a bit expensive if you're buying the Excelsior or Games Workshop
labels. Use this for filling bases and gaps left by customizations or poor miniature casting.
Always wet your fingers (and tools) with water when working with
it to keep it from sticking. You can get great base textures by stabbing/sculpting
it with a toothpick, other tools, or various grains of sandpaper.
My favorite use is to create a "swoop" of magic off the end of a staff or wand, as with my gnomish magicuser from Descent 2nd Edition shown here:
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Cyanoacrylite "Super" Glue
This glue can be brittle and requires a long time to set. I don't use it much for minis - I don't tend to trust the bond it creates and don't want to wait for it to get to full strength, or find out later the connection was weak or had gaps. Using it with an activator can help some these problems, but I don't have any activator right now.
I have heard that super glue makes a great base filler when used
with an accelerator (Zip-Kicker). Simply fill the base and spray
it with the accelerator--instantly solidified. Zap a gap might be a good brand for this. |
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Tamiya Plastic Cement
This is good glue, but I now prefer the GW or other brands with a tiny metal tube applicator.
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Sprue vs Wire Cutters
Sprue cutters are also known as flush cutters; one
side is angled and one side flat. This allows them to cut very close
to a flat surface. They are used to remove parts from the sprue or to
get a flat cut for kitbashing and conversions. Do not try cutting wire with them--they
are soft and you will ruin the blades.
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Files
These are my tools for cleaning up mold lines and flash.
Various shaped needle files will get into nearly any area. I use
the wire brush to "dust" metal debris from filing and to put a final polish
on a curved area. The emery board is good for a final polish on flat
areas like hex bases. |
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Dishwashing liquid (or White Vinegar) & Toothbrush
When miniatures are cast, the mold is coated with a material
that prevents the mold from sticking to the miniature. Combine this
with the sweat and oils from handling and a miniature is coated in a layer than could make it difficult for glue and paint to adhere.
I wash my miniatures in a small amount of dishwashing liquid and warm water, leaving them to dry before hot glueing them to a nail to be primed.
Note - I also take the time now to straighten any 'bendy' plastic guns or swords, etc. If these items are no straight, a dip in steaming (but not boiling) water will loosen them up, you can fix the problem, then follow this with a dunk in ice water to lock the plastic in place. It is easy and works fairly well.
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Putty
Poster Putty (Blue-Tac) is available almost everywhere.
I use it to hold things in place while the glue dries, and also to 'mask' areas during a sub-assembly paint job. My take is, only do sub-assemble if it really is going to make a huge difference. Like a shield or an arm in front of detail armor.
I tried to find some Super Sculpey (or Sculpey III) but have been unsuccessful here in the State of Alaska.
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Paint Bottles
I moved all my Citadel paints from pots to bottles from SKS a couple years ago (still writing that project up). In short - don't do it. Its inconsistent as to if I get a bottle that behaves ot gets plugged up, and the paints are all different consistencies now. Not sure What I'd do instead, maybe stick with VMC or something? I don't like Army Painter brand, too thin of a mix. |
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Pin Vise
For drilling into a mini, usually to "pin", or insert a metal pin or bit of paper clip to reinforce a joint between two pieces of plastic. |
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Drill Bits
These are the primary sizes I use:
Primer Options AK Fine Primer GW (Especially the Bone and Offwhite from the GW one coat line) Rust-Oleum Automotive 2-in-1 Filler & Sandable Primer Rust-Oleum 2x Ultra Cover Flat Gray Primer Tamiya Surface Primer (Light Gray) AK-Interactive Fine Primer Black Spray Krylon ColorMaster Ultra Flat Primer The Army Painter Color Primer (Matt Black) Testors Spray Enamel Paint Primer |
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Pins
Paper clips and
various diameters of metal rod/tubing also work.
Brushes
Of late I've been using these Princeton brushes that are cheap and near my house, in Anchorage, AK
Magnifier This seemed like it was 'more than I needed' at first. But now I use it anytime I paint eyes or other tiny 'dot' level details.
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